Duke Diary Dispatch: How do you get off the bus in Paris?

A Parisian street market
In Paris, our diarist encountered this street market, Marché des Enfants-Rouges.

This is the latest in a series of diary entries by Isabella Helton, one of a group of Duke students who will write about their summer travels for Duke Today. Read more of Isabella's entries here.

Bonjour from Paris! It’s been just a few days since I arrived and I already feel right at home. It has been a real whirlwind: I stayed in a hotel alone for the first time, I met the 8 other students on my study abroad program, I moved into the apartment I am living in, and met my “family de accueil” (host family).

All of this occurred, of course, in French. I feel guilty writing this in English after having taken the language pledge that my program requires; it is mandatory that we speak only French until 7pm each day. Nevertheless, I can already sense my French improving and am greatly enjoying discovering peculiar cultural differences between my home and this city halfway across the world.

 For example, yesterday I took the bus for the first time and discovered that you can only exit the bus from the door in the back. I won’t forget that detail after having been yelled at in French by all of the passengers in the bus that I “excusez-moi”-ed trying to squeeze past. Another difference between Americans and Parisians: no smiling at strangers and no smiling to yourself. I’m sure you’re familiar with the friendly wave or head-nod at a neighbor when you both get the mail or the silly face you make at a baby to try to make them smile.

None of that flies in Paris— a smile at the old man passing you by means that you’ve either had a bit too much red wine or you’ve “perd la tête” (perd means lost and tête means head— you can work out the meaning).

Of course, I’ve already enjoyed sampling the bread, pastries, and fruit that make Paris the culinary capital of the world. My petit-déjeuner this morning featured strawberries that had the most strawberry flavor I’ve ever tasted. For dessert last night, I enjoyed two delicately flavored macarons that melt in your mouth— sitting on my bed at 10:30pm, I savored a pistachio praline macaron and another flavored raspberry and basil. I’m also lucky enough that the monsieur at my homestay is a wonderful cook: last night he made a delicious beef tartare with a balsamic vinegar and tomato salad with tomatoes bought at the market that morning.

Alongside all of these cultural experiences I have been wandering Le Marais (my favorite neighborhood in Paris) and attending the first lectures of my two courses. I can’t wait to explore neighborhoods that I haven’t yet discovered and uncover more about the French “je ne sais quoi” through readings from class and through my encounters with Parisians in restaurants, cafes, and museums. Until next time mes amis!