Keeping Traditional Food on the Menu

For several years, historian David Cecelski has eaten his way across the Tar Heel State.

Cecelski's historical works about eastern North Carolina range from the Civil War era to the Civil Rights movement. He's also the author of NC Food, a popular blog about the state's traditional food and cooking.

During breaks in his research, he's likely to visit country cafés, ethnic food festivals and other culinary attractions "from Murphy to Manteo."

"It's a secret passion of mine," says Cecelski. "It began when I was teaching a Duke class in 2007-08. I was invited to talk about my experiences with food."

That talk evolved into the NC Food blog, in which Cecelski has introduced readers to little-known regional delicacies such as dried mullet roe, paw paw pudding and turnip sandwiches.

"There's something like that in every corner of North Carolina. You just have to know where to look. I try to keep my eyes open, and I want to share these discoveries with the people who read the blog."

In addition to recipes handed down by generations of Tar Heels, Cecelski has also become a fan of Tamales Oaxaqueños, Syrian grape molasses and other dishes cooked up by more recent immigrants.

With funding from the North Carolina Folklife Institute, Cecelski says he wants to continue exploring the state's gastronomic heritage while he travels and conducts historical research.

"I come at this as a passionate hobbyist," says Cecelski, whose new book about the Civil War in maritime North Carolina will be published this spring. "These days, though, I've noticed that people - even scholars - are treating me like a food expert. I guess that shows you can be an expert if you eat your way through life."